Polki vs Jadau Jewellery: What’s the Real Difference?

If you've ever admired the rich sparkle of traditional Indian jewellery and wondered whether it's Polki or Jadau — you're not alone. These two terms are often used interchangeably, but the truth is: they are not the same. While both represent the opulence of Indian craftsmanship, they serve very different roles in the jewellery-making process. Let’s unravel the mystery and understand what truly sets Polki and Jadau apart.

Polki Jewellery

Polki refers to uncut, unpolished natural diamonds that retain their raw, organic form. These diamonds are typically flat with uneven surfaces, giving them a subtle, earthy shimmer that feels regal and antique. Polki jewellery is often backed with foil (called paachi) to reflect more light and enhance its natural brilliance. It's luxurious, heavy in gold content, and often features in bridal and heirloom collections.

Jadau Jewellery

Contrary to popular belief, Jadau is not a type of stone — it’s a technique. Originating from the Mughal era, Jadau is a traditional method where stones like Polki, Kundan, pearls, and emeralds are embedded into gold without the use of solder. Instead, artisans use lac (a natural resin) and push the stones into hand-carved gold, securing them in place. Jadau pieces often feature intricate enamel (meenakari) work on the reverse, showcasing craftsmanship from both sides.

The Core Difference: Stone vs. Setting

In the simplest terms:

Polki is the stone (uncut diamond).
Jadau is the setting technique used to secure the stone in place.

Think of Polki as the star of the show and Jadau as the artful stage on which it shines. You can have Polki jewellery set in Jadau — and most traditional pieces do exactly that.

The Origins & History: A Royal Legacy

Both Polki and Jadau trace their roots to Mughal India, and their legacy has been preserved by master artisans in Rajasthan and Gujarat. Jadau flourished under royal patronage, especially in courts like Jaipur and Bikaner, where it became synonymous with bridal jewellery and ceremonial wear. Polki diamonds were prized for their rarity and raw charm, adorning everything from necklaces to sarpeches (turban ornaments) worn by kings.

Visual & Design Differences

Common Misconceptions

Is Jadau a type of diamond?

No — Jadau is a technique, not a stone.

Is Kundan the same as Polki?

Not quite. Kundan uses refined glass, while Polki uses natural uncut diamonds.

Is all Polki jewellery Jadau?

Mostly yes — but Polki can be set in other styles too, especially in modern or lightweight adaptations.

When to Choose What: Polki vs. Jadau for Occasions

polki or jadau jewellery for different occasion

Polki Jewellery is ideal for:

Grand weddings
Traditional ceremonies
Heirloom gifting
Investment purchases

Jadau Jewellery is ideal for:

Bridal sets with intricate designs
Fusion or Indo-Western outfit
Lightweight festive jewellery
Those who appreciate handcraft over diamond value

Tip: You don’t have to choose one! Many modern brides wear Polki stones set in Jadau work, combining the best of both worlds.

Final Note

Polki and Jadau aren’t rivals — they’re partners in creating timeless pieces of art. One is the raw beauty of the gem, and the other is the hands that turn it into something breathtaking. Whether you choose a glimmering Polki set or an intricately detailed Jadau piece, you're wearing a story steeped in legacy, culture, and soul.

FAQs

What is the main difference between Polki and Jadau jewellery?

Polki is the uncut diamond used in the jewellery, while Jadau is the technique used to set that stone into gold using lac and meenakari work.

Is Jadau a type of stone?

No. Jadau is a handcrafted technique, not a gemstone.

Can Polki jewellery be made without Jadau work?

Yes, but rarely. Most Polki jewellery is set using the Jadau method, though contemporary adaptations sometimes use prong or bezel settings.

Why do Polki and Jadau jewellery usually go together?

Because Polki stones are irregular in shape and delicate, the Jadau technique is ideal for setting them securely while showcasing their natural beauty.

Which is more expensive: Polki or Jadau jewellery?

Polki jewellery is generally more expensive because it uses natural diamonds. Jadau adds labour cost but not as much material value unless paired with Polki.

Does Jadau have resale value?

Jadau itself doesn’t have significant resale value unless the stones used (like Polki) and gold content are substantial. It’s prized more for its artistry.